Sunday, March 28, 2010

Some More History: Money money money!

I've talked about the barber manual written by Kousuke Iwasaki before, I know, and I'd love to share the whole thing with you but there seem to be trouble with the rights. But there is SOMETHING I'd like to share.
One of the more fascinating tidbits in this manual, written in 1964 for a trade school, is the final page: a catalog of professional goods sold by Iwasaki's Sanjou City workshop.


(Image taken from "Skilful Blacksmith S. Iwasaki World", copyright holder unknown)

Not only does it give information about WHAT was considered necessary shaving equipment for a professional barber, but also it gives the prices, leading to all kinds of interesting comparisons with current market values.

I'm not uploading any original images, but here is the most interesting information:
Tamahagane Razor....1 piece.....3,500 JPY
Tamahagane Wakamisori....1 Piece....800 JPY
#30 Razor....1 piece....1,700 JPY
Carbon Steel Wakamisori....1 Piece....430 JPY
CrOx powder....1 packet, 110g....100 JPY
Handmade Strop, "Elephant" brand....1 piece....800 JPY

"Lenz" Metallurgist's Microscope (300X)...1 piece...15,000 JPY
Honzan Hone for Razors....1,000~4,000 JPY
Honzan Hone for Wakamisori....2,000~10,000 JPY
Small form Honzan....200~500 JPY
Nagura....200~1,000 JPY

(Translated form the Japanese, taken from "Honing Razors and Wakamisori", by Kousuke Iwasaki, copyright 1964)


(Image taken from "Skilful Blacksmith S. Iwasaki World", copyright holder unknown)

Now looking at these prices, at first glance one thing pops into my head..."Holy CRAP those are some cheap razors!". At current exchange ratez, 3,500 JPY (for a Tamahagane razor) is about US$38. Less than a tank of gas. And 800 JPY for a Tamahagane Wakamisori?! That's like $10! Compare that to the $400-$500 that an Iwasaki Tamahagane Kamisori costs these days, and it numbs the mind a bit.




But, of course, this list is nearly 40 years old, and the economy has changed quite a lot since then. The challenge, then, becomes how to get a sense of what these things costs back then, in a meaningful way.

Luckily, I found this site: Measuring Worth. It uses all kinds of complex mind-breaking math to compare the costs of things on several different indices, so that you can get a sense of what the real value of something was a long time ago. Now, the data only goes up to 2008, but it's close enough. So, in 2008 Yen, here we have the value of 3,500 JPY from 1964:

15,200.00 ¥ using the Consumer Price Index
13,000.00 ¥ using the GDP deflator
38,700.00 ¥ using the average monthly wage
45,800.00 ¥ using the nominal GDP per capita
12,400.00 ¥ using the real GDP per capita
60,100.00 ¥ using the nominal GDP

Of course, you see the problem--we have a HUGE disparity. From 12,400 JPY to 60,100 JPY. IN US$, that would be like $120-$600. NOT a small jump. So we have to decide what the proper index is. The site, Measuring worth, breaks it down like this:

A Commodity. If your are asking about the "present worth" of buying a loaf of bread or filling the gas tank 40 years ago, are you thinking in terms of the amount of money you are spending today on such things? If so, use the price index of the average household called the CPI (RPI for the UK.) On the other hand, if you are wondering how "affordable" this would be to the average person, use the GDP per capita, or a wage or average earnings index. For the US, we have an index of unskilled wage and for the UK we have an index of average earnings.

In 1968, the average price of a gallon of gasoline in the US was 34 cents. Compared to other things that the average consumer bought that year, this would be comparable to $2.03 using the CPI index for 2007. As to how "affordable" it is to the average person, 34 cents in 1968 would correspond to spending $3.44 out of an average income by using the GDP per capita index.


Since this is a retail good, even though it's for professional use, then the most applicable indices would be the CDI or the GDP per capita...still, though, it's a massive range. However, that sense of "affordability" appeals to me, so let's go for the GDP per capita..."real", not "nominal", because real things are good.

So, the 3,500 JPY Tamahagane razor in 1964 is like a 12,400 JPY razor today. Or, something like US$130. For a new, high-level straight razor, pretty cheap actually. Dovo has several more expensive than that...and for Tamahagane? Well, I'd have a few...

But then we get to that Tamahagane Wakamisori. This is a little different situation, because there just so happen to be Iwasaki Tamahagane Kamisori on the market...and they cost somewhere in the neighborhood of 60,000-70,000 JPY. That 1964 price of 800 JPY would be 2,830JPY according to the above listed Real GDP comparison. Now THAT, I can not explain...I mean, there are very few people making tamahagane wakamisori these days, that might help with SOME of the difference, but...wow.

Then, of course, there are the hones. A razor hone for 1,000-4,000 JPY...Here, "razor hone" would mean a Honzan hone in the "Razor shape", about 13.5cmx8.5cm. I have a couple of these myself, and they are a nice size...and you know the weird thing? I've seen them for roughly the same price. I mean, between 1,000 and 4,000 JPY...I bought one myself for 1,200 JPY and it is a fantastic hone. Now, a "Maruka" stamped razor hone (the top rated hones) would go for somewhere between 10,000 and 20,000 JPY these days, quite a bit mroe, but using the site, we see that the prices would run between 3,540 JPY and 14,300 JPY...so there really isn't a huge difference there. Interesting, as the mines for these hones have been closed for 30 years...you'd think the diminishing supply would drive prices up a bit more than that...odd...

So there you have a glimpse into the barbering world of 1964 Japan. It's interesting...and there is more, of course, I could get into. Like that microscope! Talk about expensive! And the fact that in 1964, they were using things (a microscope, CrOx powder) to hone razors that people are STILL arguing about today. Pretty cool stuff.

Monday, March 22, 2010

Tragedy Strikes!

I have written about my skin troubles before, and I shall do so yet again. For this time, this time it might have broken my heart.
The other day, I was preparing for my regular nightly shave and, feeling in the mood for a wee bit of luxury, decided I'd bring out the big guns: Caste Forbes Lime shaving cream. This cream is THE benchmark--it practically defines what a "gourmet shave" should be. An amazing scent of fresh limes, thick luxurious lather, and wonderful shaving. It's just fantastic, but you do have to pay to play...It ain't cheap, folks.

But this tub wasn't so expensive, and I have been using it sparingly to make it last, and so I don't really worry about it. So I got it out, and taking my pre-soaked Semogue Limited Edition boar (more on this beauty later) I proceeded to lather up.

My face felt a wee bit "warm", usually not a good sign, but I figured it was just that I hadn't shaved in a couple of days, and I was using a new boar brush which can add to skin issues. But soon the lather was nice and smooth, and I was ready to shave. But first, I noticed a couple of spots where the lather had splashed onto my chest and shoulder. I wiped them off...and saw two bright red, swollen blotches.

Aw CRAP.

I washed my face off, and sure enough--red as a fire engine. Truly, a sad day...my skin decided to fight back against a true classic cream...and there's not much I can do about it.

I'll give it another try, someday, on the off-chance it was just a one-off deal, but hopes are not high.

==========

Now, the brush.

I got this one after a VERY long wait--the 2009 Semogue Limited Edition "Two-Band Boar" (#18 of a run of 100...). This is a beauty of a boar, and it's got some extra stuffing for some extra backbone...and it is a fantastic brush.

It is EXACTLY what I want in a shaving brush. Stiff but smooth, excellent bristle control with little splay, and it doesn't eat lather--it puts it on your face, right where it belongs.

One of the best purchases I've made in a long time. And what a looker!





Definitely a keeper there...

Wednesday, March 10, 2010

Present Day

Oh, the postman was good to me...

So the book showed up...a publication of the "Kyoto Natural Hone Association" called The Charm of Kyoto's Natural Hones.


It's beautiful--history, maps, pictures, microscopic examinations of hone particles...Love it!





I would love to be able to say "I'll translate it for you!" but 1.) It is still in print, and under copyright, and I would not feel good pirating it...some of these guys I'd like to meet someday. and 2.) it's 89 pages, and that would NOT be an easy task.

But I'll share what I know...

Also, I got me a big old box of rock...





Most of these are going to end up as slurry stones, but those little Karasu stones are mine...

Funtime!

To top the evening off, I had such a great shave. Van Der Hagen soap, my Kim Son brush and the good old Tamahagane straight. Such bliss...and smooth as butter!

Even with a cold, life is good.

Sunday, March 7, 2010

Cleaning Time

I've been feeling bad vibes, some dirty karma coming my way. Time to clean it up...and you, my readers, will reap all the benefits!

OK kids, it's time for my very first EASTERN SMOOTH GIVEAWAY!

I'm giving away a fabulous prize to one reader, totally free. No shipping, no nothing--it's on me! What's in it for me, you might want to know? Well, I write stuff. I like to write stuff, it's kind of a thing with me. But me writing stuff is no fun unless people read it--people like you. So to show my gratitude (and maybe get a few more people on board), I thought I'd bri...ermmm...pay you back for your loyalty with a little contest.

Here's the deal. Between now and 12:01 a.m. JST (Japan standard time, Google it...) April 2nd, you can enter by doing TWO things.

1.), follow me on Twitter at @EasternSmooth and msg me the following: "EasternSmooth is the coolest cat around, pass it on!"

Feel free to retweet to your friends.

And 2.), Post a comment on THIS POST, including a Haiku about how much you want to win.

You have to do BOTH of the above (BOTH I said!) to enter.

Everyone who enters properly will have their names thrown into a big ol' box and my wife or I will draw on April 2nd. I'll post the winning name here on that day, and You'll have to conatct me to get your prize.

So what WILL the prize be?

1 (one) shave ready Wapienica Razor and

1 (one) of the following (winner's choice):

A mysterious Japanese finishing hone. This hone was found hidden away in a shop in Hiroshima, and all it said was "Finishing Hone". It's HARD HARD HARD, I've not got a harder one, and it is super fine--every bit as good as the similarly colored hone my barber gave me, but not as fast a cutter (no nashiji). It's not the prettiest, but it is a heck of a rock. I am confident that this is as good as any honzan finisher. It comes lapped and chamfered, ready for use. It will also come with a suitable slurry stone for a full range honing stone. This stone was very cheap, I will admit, but it should have been much more expensive--the shop owner had forgotten how long it had lain under that shelf, so he just said the first price he could think of. Measurements (in mm): 138x81x23



OR

A brand spanking new #20000 Kanayama strop, straight from Tokyo to you. The leather on these is just fantastic, and I want you to see it for yourself. (Full Disclosure: Yes, I do run the Kanayama Strop Shop, I do sell these, but this one is free and clear for you).



So there it is. Spread the word, the more the merrier I say.
Thanks, as always, for reading!


**REMINDER** Don't forget the Tweet!

Friday, March 5, 2010

Don't Mention The War

I couldn't tell you why, but for some reason I really get a kick out of "National Shaves"...




So yesterday a got a nice little package of Tabac Shave Soap in the matching bowl (a great deal at Fragrancex.com...free shipping worldwide just can't be beat, man...) and I thought "Hey! New soap from Germany, new razor from Germany! I've even got me a German brush! So put them all together, and I got a fantastic shave...

The Tabac is...Tabac. An exceptional soap, with superb lather and (in my opinion) a great scent. I've had the stick for a while but I figured I'd try the puck out, and it did not at all disappoint. Easy, slick, protective...everything a man could want in a shave soap.

The Revisor shaves like a madman. A great edge on a gorgeous big blade. It shaves smooth and easy...as good as it looks. I really do like those gents in Solingen and their work...

Even my aftershave, the Nivea, is German (Nivea being headquartered in Germany)...and there you go. A shave from the Fatherland! It tickles me so much to have the whole deal. I wish I could get some good Japanese creams or soaps, to match the fantastic steel and strop...

AND, of course, the rocks. The beautiful, beautiful rocks...