Showing posts with label Japan. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Japan. Show all posts

Saturday, November 21, 2009

The Holy Grail

I have a story for you. Relax, it's a long one, but the payoff is worth it.


(Much of the following is adapted from my reading of this site: Skilful Blacksmith S. Iwasaki World. I have done my best to present it accurately, but my Japanese is flawed, so there may be mistakes...I'm confident in the gist, though.)

Let's go back. Back to Japan, after the Meiji restoration, when the nation was recreating itself, from its medieval, feudal period into a more modern, industrialized state...with the help, oddly enough, of Germany. The post-Meiji restoration government took Germany as a role model, a relationship which influenced its constitution, it's military structure, and its medicine...even today, a great number of medical words used in Japan are German (Magenkrebs for stomach cancer, and so on). Even the ubiquitous Japanese school uniforms are modeled on German military uniforms of the late 19th century. Even in popular entertainment, German words make far more of an appearance than any langauge besides English. Germany in many ways had MORE of an impact on pre-WWII Japan than the US has had post...and one of the ways, the one that concerns us here, is steel.

German Solingen steel has had a fantastic reputation for centuries. After Japan entered the world stage, after years of isolationism, foreign products (GERMAN products) flooded into Japan, and one of these was the cheap, high-quality Solingen steel. Germany, as a modern industrial state, could produce goods at a higher rate, and for lower cost, than the traditional Japanese hand-made economy. People turned to these newer, cheaper goods to the detriment of a great many craftsmen; village blacksmiths, especially, were losing out to the lower prices but comparable quality of Solingen steel. Many of them lost their livelihoods to the foreign products. One of those blacksmiths was named Iwasaki.

Kousuke Iwasaki (b1903-d1967) remembered his father's forge, and he remembered how he simply could not compete with German engineering. In his youth, he decided that he would find a way to make Japan competitive with Solingen steel, and to do so he decided to combine what he say as Japan's strength--it's traditional steel making, and it's legendary swords--and bring it into the modern age. He went to university to study metallurgy, and apprenticed himself to blacksmiths, to learn both the theory and the practice of steel making. He researched and quantified the steels that Japanese smiths used--White paper steel, Blue steel, and Ball steel.

Tamahagane, "ball" or "jewel" steel, was the steel of the Katana, the ultimate expression of the Japanese steelmaker's craft. It took hours, days, of backbreaking work and produced superlative edged tools. Kousuke Iwasaki researched this steel, and quantified it, making a modern material with traditional roots--he did not save it, but he made it something that was no longer a semi-mythical material, but a manufacturable steel. Japan still manufactures Tamahagane based on Iwasaki's guiding principles, although in very limited amounts, and those are mostly reserved for the licensed sword-smiths.

Eventually he revived his father's forge in the city of Sanjo, in Niigata prefecture. Together with his son, he started making and using tamahagane, forging it into edged tools...like razors.

Kousuke's son, Shigeyoshi (b. 1933), came to share his father's love of Japanese steel and tradition. He continued making razors after his father's death, and in time they have come to be regarded as the best in Japan. They combine exceptional craft and striking design, and have fans both in Japan and abroad.

In 1998, Shigeyoshi was invited to Germany, to an international craft exhibition in Muenchen, to demonstrate Traditional Japanese smithing techniques. There, he was award a Gold Prize for excellence, and he said of the event, that he felt he had finally brought his father's ambition to fruition...he had beat the Germans. ;)

So...why have I told you all this? So that maybe, you could understand a little of the background behind this thing right here:






That is a western style folding straight, made by Shigeyoshi Iwasaki about twnety years ago. Not only that, but it is made of Tamahagane...the steel that was so important to the Iwasaki name.

This is a rare razor. Western style Iwasaki Straights are rare enough. I have the good luck to have been given one, and it is one of only two or three I've seen, even in pictures. I'm sure that there are many more, but people don't seem to advertise the fact, and they certainly don't sell them.

Add to that rarity the fact that this particular razor is made of rare steel, usually reserved for swordsmiths, and this is one of a very few number of razors of its type...and it is now in my possession.

This is the one razor I have dreamed of having since I first heard of it. I know that, in and of itself, the razor is no better at its job than any other well made blade--there are a great number of fantastic shaving razors out there. And of course, Tamahagane is not magical, it is not brought forth from the heavens by gods...But the history, the story...I find it an exceptionally moving one, and I am so proud to have this razor.

It was purchased from a 3rd generation barber, who is closing up shop and has no one to take over for him. He told me he is keeping two razors for himself--one other Tamahagane made by Shigeyoshi Iwasaki, and one made by Kousuke Iwasaki.

He told me that he is glad that the razor will be used, rather than just looked at, and that if I hone it well, it will shave better than any other he's seen. He's used it for 20 years, so I trust he knows what he's talking about. I will soon see...

I am humbled, and exalted, by my good fortune.

Thank you for reading.

Monday, October 5, 2009

What a week...

Man. This has been a tough one on the shave front. I've been trying some serious hone stuff, and it's been failing miserably, which means BAD SHAVES!!!! GRRRR....

My trials and tribulations trying to get used to the hone my barber gave me a couple months back are well known to many readers of Straight Razor PLace, and I'm not going to review them here because, honestly, I'd rather just forget it. Not a pretty incident. Lots of ugly feelings, and some stark realizations...*sigh* Drama.

However, on Sunday I went back to visit Kawaguchi-sensei, and it was refreshing in oh so many ways. We talked razors, he helped me with some technique, honed a razor (and I got a video...awesome, eh?) and he gave me another hone!

I truly love that man.
Watch the video, I bet you will too.


Here's a VERY rough translation:
Around the 00:20-00:55 mark
K: About this much.
Me:Ok, ok...
K: Do about this much, and it'll be really different.
{pause}
K: The hone is Best? (Even my wife doesn't understand this one...). The hone is really flat/smooth, that's why it's stuck. (He picks up the hone using the stuck nagura).

(Then he talks to the guy watching, who says "Unbelievable...")

1:02
(He starts honing the razor...)
K: Like this, yeah? Slow is fine. When you do it, about three times is good. (I think he means circles...that ISN'T the stroke he showed me before...)
J: Three times...
K: Then change sides.
{pause}
K: About like this...
{pause}
1:25ish
K: To know if you7re doing it righ, look at the color (points to slurry). (At this point, I have no idea what his WORDS are, but I get the feeling he's saying that the color of the slurry is the best indicator of your honing--the faster it changes, the better you're doing. Maybe...)

1:40
K: When the color starts to change you're honing right.
Me: The amount of steel is increasing...

{He goes over to the window to check the edge by it's color}

2:35
K: The part of the edge that I honed is right here, you see? Up to here, it honed well. This part here, that I honed, is straight. This part (points to tip) is rounded. This part, you raised the tip when you were honing. Anyway, there's no color. This is the part I honed (points to straight edge of blade). The end...
ME: The end is rounded (meaning there bevel extends up onto the toe a bit from a previous smile...)
{back to the counter...}

3:01
K: If you really pushed it, you could hone the tip like this (exaggerates a tip-down position) but if you do that the edge won't be any good. To hone this out (looks carefully at the blade) it'll take about an hour. (Meaning to hone out the smiling tip on this hone...).
ME: Really?
K: If you honed it...
Me: Sooo...This part, the one you just honed...Will it shave well?
K: Not quite yet...
ME* How do you tell? Just by looking? (long pause while I search for words)Feeling with your fingers?
K: no no, no need. Just by looking, I can see in the color...a little more. But...This will cut, I think. (Tests on his arm) It'll cut.

3:54
ME: Ok, well, (Here I WANTED to ask about overhoning, but failed miserably) Can you hone too much? You said to go for an hour...
K: OK, here...One time, ten minutes. Ten minutes, ten minutes, ten minutes...to one hour. Don't just hone for one hour.
ME: Don't...
K: Even just five minutes...ten minutes. Try it.

ME: And always use this nagura? For example, at the end, hone with just water...
K: Don't.
ME: Don't.
K: Don't. It'll be rough. This (indicates slurry) will get finer over time. Just with this (stone), the color won't change (rinses stone).
{starts honing with water only}
5:05
K: (Totally don't understand...something "don't use..."
5:45
K: This color...there's no light (???) Just look at the light.
ME: (not seeing what he wants me to see) Sooo...it's not there? The color?
K: Yeah.

{back to the counter. at this point, I forgot about the camera...sorry}
6:04
K: (???)
ME: This Nagura, it's the same stone as this stone?
K: This is a good stone (???)

Here it breaks up. Sorry.

And he gave me this massive rock:



It's huge, and it's pretty, and I bet I won't be able to use it right for years. Oh well, I'll hang in there. I would love to do it justice--it's a good 50 year old hone, nice yellow with spots of nashiji...and it's so freaking big. Like, 8 inches by 3 inches by 2 inches. Weighs a good 4 pounds. A brick.

Lots of Japan in that rock...I'd like to get some of it out and into my razors!

Monday, December 1, 2008

A Research Shopping Trip

My Wife and I got a new car (YAY!) and it showed up the day before yesterday. We took a road trip to The Big City, and while we were there I checked out the shaving goods available.

It wasn't pretty.


We went to Kokura, which is a nice big city in northern Kyushu. It's not huge, but it has some major department stores, which are about the only places to find good shaving supplies in Japan.

First, I went to The Body Shop. I was finally able to pick up a tube of their Maca Root Shave cream for 1,630 yen, about $16. Not bad...

Next, to a big department store--Izutsuya. Shaving supplies are usually found in the cutlery sections, cased along with row after row of fine hand-forged Japanese knives. Maybe it's to help justify the prices...Apart from the usual Schick and Gillette multi-blade cartridge shavers, they had ONE DE razor, a Merkur Futur. For 11,000 yen. That's 110 bucks. For a razor that retails in the US and Europe for around $55-$60. Eep.

They also had Merkur DE blades for 825 yen a pack, and a no-name Tanuki hair brush for 7,000. (Their no-name boar was 3000...). Eep again.

SO we moved on, to the big Isetan department store next to the station...which, in the year since we had last been to Kokura, had been bought out by Izutsuya. D'Oh!

The cutlery section again...and there's a bit more selection this time.

There was Futur again (same price as before) and also a gold Merkur Slant Bar.


For 11,000 yen. Which is odd, as the Slant usually sells for quite a bit less than the Futur...

They also had a couple of Plisson brushes. This Pure Black hexagon (Retail 40 Euros) was selling for 12,000 yen:


And this one (I think) for the same price:


Over priced, over priced over priced. I guess products ARE available, if you are willing to pay double the price of importing them from the US or Europe. Thank God for the internet, is all I can say.