Showing posts with label Research. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Research. Show all posts

Thursday, September 24, 2009

Nagura: The Grand Experiement Begins

I've started using these little stones I got, and I reckon I should keep track of it...

So let's start with the razors.


My main tester is a Genco Fluid Steel. The edge is essentially good, but it wasn't quite keen enough for me so I took it through a 5K/8K pyramid on my Naniwa super stones and got it to a very fine shaving edge. I shaved off of it at 8K and got an excellent edge.

So this one will be me test blade. I'm going to polish it on my Nakayama using the different nagura, and see if I can notice any difference.

First up: the Nagura my barber gave me.



This is a very hard stone, and looks identical to the Nakayama itself in color and texture. Using my barber's method, I gave the Genco 20 passes on heavy slurry, then slowly diluted, a la Bart's Dilucot method, and finished on water only.

The shave was good. Smooth, but not as keen as it should have been (the edge off the 8K was quite sharp.). I'll have to work on technique, perhaps...well, not actually perhaps...for sure!

My plan is to give this one a couple more test shaves, then polish it out on the 8K and then move to the Mejiro.

***

The other test is a bit less controlled.

I have this razor.



It's nice looking, isn't it? It's Japanese made, but marked "Imported steel" on the tail...meaning it's most likely Swedish steel (that's what everyone seems to use--good steel...). I was trying to hone it but making NO progress...it was like it was immune to the stones. I mentioned this to Glen/Gssixgun on SRP, and he said that Swedish steel can be a real SOB to hone because it's so hard. He recommended I try slurry on my $K to help cut it...and a little light went on.

Nagura time!


I got out my Botan, which according to the site where I got it, "Has a strong honing effect...and is speedy on carpenter's tools" (It also smells really really good. Like...GOOD> Weird, I know, for a rock, but it's true). The folks I bought it from said they are all ok for razors, so that's no worry. Speedy and strong sounded just the ticket, so I slurried up my King 4K and went to town.

Again, I hit the Dilucot method. I gave the razor a few sets of ten, and BOOM, it was cutting arm hairs. It hadn't done that at ALL before...and now, I was getting super smooth action. Joy! I finished out the dilucot and that edge was KEEN.

Again, I hit it on the 8K as well, botan slurry with the dilucot method, and that edge....Fantastic. I shaved with it last night, at got a BBS with no irritation. Off an 8K edge with no stropping...amazing. Glen is a GENIUS, as is Bart, and this Botan is my new best friend!

Wednesday, September 16, 2009

More than you want to know about Nagura...(LONNNNNG)

I'm taking this whole Japanese shaving thing to heart, learning as much as I can about all that I can, and it's really getting interesting...To me, at least.



People who are familiar with Japanese hones will have heard the word "Nagura" before. Those who haven't, well, basically when you use a natural Japanese stone to sharpen things, very often it will have a smaller stone with it that you rub all over the surface of the hone to make a thin mix of water and grit rubbed off that smaller stone. The smaller one is called a "Nagura". This is used in traditional Japanese honing to help increase the range of a hone's effect--often, a hone with a nagura will polish faster and more smoothly than just a hone itself. Why? I don't know. But I plan to find out.

Now, here's the thing that got me going on this--people dealing with straight razor honing have started using this word to describe ANY stone you use to make a slurry paste on your hones, and so we get things like "Cotigura", a portmanteau of "Coticule", the Belgian wonderstone, and "Nagura". Or people call the DMT card they use to raise a slurry on their stones a Nagura...Even Japan isn't immune to it--every little stone included with the synthetic water stones are called Nagura, as well. So I used to think that the word just meant "slurry stone", until one day in a thread on SRP where I posted videos of me honing on a Japanese natural stone using a slurry, someone asked me "Is that stone a Nagura or a Nakayama?" That question threw me. As if, Nagura must mean something much more than I had thought.

I was really confused...and then I started thinking about the name "Nagura." It doesn't have a meaning, or not at least one that is related to what it does. The kanji for the name, 名倉, has NOTHING to do with stones, or polishing or honing. Which is odd--Japanese is usually a pretty pragmatic language when it comes to objects. The word for a hone, 砥石 (to-ishi) translates directly to "polish stone". (Or, an example I like much better, the word for honey 蜂蜜, "hachimitsu", is "bee syrup".) But Nagura? Roughly, it means something like "Famous Storehouse". That looks less like an object name, and more like a PERSON name.

Which led me on a merry chase...

I started with a simple search on the term. 95% of the hits on Google were for people. Hmmm...

Then came the motherlode. There is a seller on the Japanese Yahoo Auction site that keeps listing Japanese hones and Nagura, and they happen to have a webshop, which happens to include the word "nagura" in the URL. I investigated, and these guys take Nagura SERIOUSLY. They have pages and pages about them, and this stuff is amazing. So I started studying.

Nagura, as it turns out, are essentially super-fine hones. Due to reasons like highly variable hardness, size and immense rarity (read price), are not suitable for making actual hones. Instead, they are broken into small pieces and used with the hones from more suitable sources (like the Maruka Nakayama mine in Kyoto). And like the Nakayama mine, there is really only one serious place to get a Nagura.



According to the late Kousuke Iwasaki, when he first started making razors he had trouble with honing. he was getting breaks and chips on his edges, which he eventually found came from the inferior nagura that were being sold by the merchants--they were cheap, and easily found, and of substandard quality. So he began searching for a long lost source for the Nagura that had bene sued for centuries in the polishing of Katana...He took this selection very seriously; in his book "刃物の見方" ("Understanding Bladed Implements"), he said something along the lines of "If a razor maker can not hone a razor well, the razor will not shave well, and people will think that the razor is no good." So he worked on researching just where the best hones, and the best nagura to use with them, could be found.


The Junmikawashiro mine (純三河白-I'm not at all sure of that reading) in Aichi prefecture is the only place in Japan that produced the Nagura that Iwasaki-san found suitable for the finest honing and polishing. Not only that, he identified the different seams of the mine, and with the help of geologist Nagayuki Asano divided them based on their polishing effects, speed, and purity.


The ten seams of the mine are shown abov, in a page from Iwasaki's notebook.

They are:
1. Mejiro (White-eye)
2. Tenjou (heaven)
3. Buchikou
4. Koma (very fine)
5. Botan (Tree Peony)
6. Layered Botan
7. Mushi (nothing)
8. Atsu (??)
9. Ban (??)
10. Shikiban.

I personally am still learning the differences between these seams. I know that the Koma and the Mejiro are supposed to be the finest, with Tenjou next, while the Botan is fine and fast cutting...
So I bought one of each!!!! (Well, no Koma...yet...)


I'm going to keep studying these, and I hope soon not only to have a better grasp of WHY you need them, but how to use them and the differences between the three types. But what I fear, and what will truly be something to look out for, is...
Nagura Acqusition Disorder.

Oh dear...

Tuesday, April 14, 2009

A Little History...Beardsley and Alvord

Who knew history would become a pert of my blog? But here you go, when you use tools made more than 100 years ago, history tends to just...happen!





In my last post, I showed my first restoration project. It's a beautiful razor, and one I'm glad I found,but it is something of a mystery. I couldn't find any information on the maker, dates, anything, and I was getting really curious...so I started to really research this blade.

In my research about this razor, I first encountered a reference to a company called "Beardsley and Alvord" in the book "Annals of Winchester (and Winsted) CT." I could only find the index, however, not the text, so I knew nothing. THEN, on SMF, a very kind member posted a page from History of Waterbury and the Naugatuck Valley, Connecticut on Google books, where we find:

"It is necessary to turn back the pages of Winsted's history to the year 1852 in order to find the record of the first work accomplished by the concern which is now known as the Empire knife company. It will be found that two Englishmen, Messrs. Thompson and Gascoigne, came to Winsted in that year and opened a modest little shop for the purpose of making pocket cutlery...The founders did a fair trade, but lacked capital to devlop the industry, and in 1856 the business passed into the hands of Beardsley & Alvord."

So there was a cutlery business in the 1850's in Connecticut by the name of Beardsley and Alvord, which in later years changed its name to The Empire Knife company (in business until 1932)! So this razor was a product of the Beardsley & Alvord cutlery business in Winsted, CT...
Further digging turned up THIS information:

"James Richard Alvord was engaged in the dry goods business in his early years. In 1853 he took up the manufacture of pocket cutlery. This business was continued under the firm name, of Beardsley and Alvord, who bought the small pocket cutlery concern of Thompson and Gascoygn. In 1856 they built their factory at the Lake outlet, enlarged the business and placed it on a permanent basis, changing the name to the Empire Knife Co." (From A GENEALOGY OF THE DESCENDANTS OF ALEXANDER ALVORD AN EARLY SETTLER OF WINDSOR, CONN. AND NORTHAMPTON, MASS. V COMPILED BY
'SAMUEL MORGAN ALVORD 1908 A.D. ANDREW B, Pb int sb. Wbb st bb.N Y., p.288--found on the Library of Congress site.)

So Beardsley & Alvord changed their company name to The Empire Knife Co. in 1856, placing the date of my razor somewhere between 1853 and 1856...

Now THAT is some interesting stuff.

Now, further research shows that Connecticut had a lively iron and steel industry in the 19th century, so it is very possible that this razor, as English as it sounds, is a pure old American razor...which makes me inordinately happy!