And They're Off!

OK, so it's decided...I've got my Tsuyu Lineup.

The running was close...mostly because the stuff is all awesome. Really...it's like trying to decide which is better, beer or other beer. But in the end, totally irrelevant things like dates and stuff helped me decide. I mean you guys! You guys helped me out! Thanks for that. ;)

Ok, so let's meet our lineup:
On the razor front, I've got two winners--mostly out of maintenance concerns, but also because of the nature of the contest--if I were basing it purely on the weather/rusting aspect, there would only be one horse in the race and that's no fun!
First up is The Monster from Munster (not really, but close enough):
The 8/8 Henckels Friodur!



It's a beast, and we have...history...but it's undoubtedly a good shaver. And I want to be able to use it to its full potential!

The second blade was, of course, the one I had to think about--all the others are great, too, but...well...there were other concerns. So I went for The Genco Fluid Steel:



This 5/8 Half hollow American blade is a great little shaver (not THAT little, but next to the battleaxe I'm pairing it with it's downright WEE!) and it is close to my heart. But the real reason I chose it? Well, the 4th of July is coming up, and there's just a wee bit of patriotic spark in there. What can I say? Like the man said, "It's excellent and American." Just like me!

Now, I will be using some other razors, as I plan on doing some more honing and I need to test, but these will be my daily shavers for sure.

What about the lather?

Well...This was actually pretty easy. I believe Olafurson said it best when he said "Duh!". Penhaligon's in a landslide.


The reason it was so easy to decide in such a rich field of contenders ("It beat MWF? Come on!" I can hear you saying...) is the scent. Plain and simple. I keep my soaps next to my bed, and that scent wafts out over me morning and night, and I. Just. LOVE it. So here comes an English Fern Tsuyu.

My cream choice was a bit tougher, because 1.) I'm mostly a soap guy and 2.) I have only fantastic creams. I really do. They're all just lovely, and I could live with any one of them--because I don't keep any that are less than spectacular, for one reason or another.

But, in the end I had to choose, and Kodou had a good argument--what would Florena be like over the long haul?
So there it is! Florena, for the win!


Now, here's the deal with this. I am not only practicing fidelity with this. I have a real goal--I am going to focus hard-core on technique this month. Instead of testing blades and products, I'm testing myself, and my goal is true BBS. I'll start with the tough spots--my jawline, and the two patches to either side of my Adam's apple. Then I'll work on the pressure and angle to make sure that I'm eliminating hair, and NOT skin. And in the end, I hope to be getting consistent 9s or better on my daily shaves. I'll do my best to keep track of my progress here, and let you know how my goals are doing. I'll also be doing some more in-depth reviews of what I'm using, and some research into the history, mostly to satisfy my own curiosity. (BTW, I'm also doing some research on Japanese razor makers, but I'm running into some walls--if anyone has any leads, especially as pertains to straights, I'd REALLY appreciate some help!)

Now, who's with me?!

One Month of Only...

Well, I am in a bit of a quandary, and I need your help. Time for my first Reader Poll!

The Japanese rainy season, or Tsuyu in Japanese, has begun. This means two things: it is Hot and it is Wet. It doesn't actually rain that much more than usual, but the humidity is a freaking nightmare...I personally think they should call it the sweaty season rather than the rainy season, but that's probably just me.

"Well, what does this have to do with shaving", you ask? Basically, it means that I can't keep a collection of 16 straight razors in good working order--The humidity will set in and rust the edges of the razors that are not frequently used and stropped. Therefore, I've decided to oil up and put away all but TWO of my straights for the duration of the rainy season.

I'm actually looking at this as an opportunity --by focusing on one or two blades, I will be sort of reigning in as many variables as possible and really work on the shave--hitting those tough spots and bearing down to get that truly fantastic 10/10 shave.

So here's the deal. I can't figure out which razors I want to keep going. I have so many nice ones, and I love them all, so it's going to be tough to narrow it down. I've decided one--the Stainless Friodur is staying out because, well, it's stainless--much less worry about rust there. But which of my other ones? That's where you come in.

I'd like you to tell me which razor I should use for the rest of this Tsuyu (roughly a month). Just use the comments to tell me which one...and at the end of the month, I'll give a full, in depth report of the razor and my performance, including some historical research if I can get it done.

And you know what? This literally just came to me...I'm going to go all out. One razor (ok, two razors...), one soap and one cream for all of Tsuyu. Yeah, let's make it really interesting. Summer fidelity! So go ahead, use the comments to tell me which one to use and why:

Razors:
"Gold Rex"
Towa Wedge
Genco Fluid Steel
Wapi

Creams:
La Toja Classica
TBS Maca Root Cream
T&H Almond
Florena Cream

Soaps:
Penhaligon's English Fern
BlackStangAl's Homegrown
Mitchell's Wool Fat
Wilkinson Stick

OK folks, help me out here! Tell me which one, and why!

Voting closes when I feel like it's reached an end. ;)
Thanks!

In Review: Lucido Unscented Skin Conditioner

I haven't done a review of Japanese products in a while--I'm running out, to be honest--but this one deserves some words.



This skin conditioner is part of Japanese cosmetics maker Mandom's Lucido line, a line of unscented men's skin and hair care products. While not specifically an aftershave, it does recommend use after shaving, and I think it does pretty well in that regard.

It's a semi-heavy balm type of lotion, somewhere between The Shave Den and Connaught Shaving's AS Milks in consistency. As I said, it's unscented so when you sue it, the only thing you smell is kind of a plasticy, lotiony scent. Not exactly pleasing to the nos,e but not entirely off-putting, either. I'm planning to add a nice scent...when I find some good EOs.

As for the quality of the skincare, it's actually pretty good. I've used it a few times, after good shaves and bad, and it has left me feeling really soothed and good. There is a hint of menthol, which for me means that the initial application is a bit burny...not as bad as, say, an alcohol splash on razorburn, but not pleasant. Luckily, it's very mild and very short, and it fades in a few seconds.

I like the stuff, I have to say, and I'm glad of it--it's affordable and easily obtainable and with some scent manipulation it should be just about perfect!

Again, Generosity Rains Down...

You know, if I keep posting about the great stuff that happens to me, some people might think I'm boasting....Screw 'em.

So a member of a couple of the forums I post on messaged me with some questions about hones a while back. I did my best to answer him, though I am no expert, and gave him all the information I had gathered in my own research into this subject. We went back and forth for a while, exchanging emails and sharing info, and I think he felt satisfied with what I had to share. I hope so, anyway.

Well, a couple of weeks or so ago, I got another message, saying something like "I'm sending you a present because I want to. Keep an eye out for a package..."

Now, we all like presents, so of course I was excited...I didn't feel I deserved anything but then, who ever does?

Well...last weekend I got a package. I very excited opened. What did I find?

The

Holy

Freaking

Grail.






Amazing. I've not had the opportunity to shake this man's hand, or even see his face! But when I do, it will be a hand well shook, let me tell you.

It's odd for a man who doesn't believe in God to use this word, but sometimes I feel really blessed...

Anyway...yeah. Someone (He knows who he is, and if he reads this THANK YOU!!!) GAVE me Penhaligon's English Fern SHaving Soap in a wood bowl. I'm still in shock...

A Thousand and One words...

The strop is here...some pictures and words for you...


Here are the Kanayama Bothers--on the left is my older strop, the "Fine Stars". It's been a fine strop, and I've had no complaints. It's a little smooth for me, I think I'd like some more draw...

On the right, of course, is the new "Llama Brand" model 30000 strop. It's much longer, with much more effective leather space, and the leather is more even and lighter than the Fine Stars. There's more draw, and the lack of a handle is no real limpediment to use.



A close-up of the stamp at the bottom, showing the Kanayama logo. You can also get an idea of the leather's texture--it's smooth, but but not quite glossy, like the older strop was when I got it.



Here are the two stamps at the bottom, the Kanayama logo and the 30000 stamp. I have no idea if the 30000 has any meaning other than denoting the top of the Kanayama line of strops--whether it's just an internal numbering system or it refers to a certain quality of the strop itself...if anyone knows, please fill me in.


Here is the hanging tackle, a decent quality swivel and hook, with a nice clasp held with a screw, in case you need to change it around at all. There are some little details that stand out to me about this pat of the strop.

One, the leather and the linen are trimmed at exactly the same angles on the upper corner, even though the leather is wider than the linen it is still perfectly matched. The linen is also EXACTLY centered with the leather, despite that difference in widths. This attention to minor detail is something that speaks volumes about Kanoyama-san's workmanship, I think...



Here's the hand end of the Linen. That's a leather tab glued over the end. Again---perfectly centered and even, and the tab is glued out to the very edge, but there is NO glue visible. Small things, yes, that do not effect the use of the strop, but the small things are where quality lives. Anyone can cut a piece of smooth leather and make a strop. It takes someone who CARES to make a strop where every tiny, insignificant detail is right.

Now, I have stropped a couple of razors on it, and while I can't say a lot about this strop in relation to others, I can say that the leather feels good on the razors, with decent draw even with full hollows, but not sticky. The leather is supple but not easily "cupped", and it is LONG. A very good stropping stroke on this one. I am well pleased so far!

The linen is the same as the Fine Stars, a very very stiff brown fabric with a coarse grain--it seems to work well, but I've never used another linen so I can't compare, really.

I'm very, very glad I have the chance to see this stop, and use it for the rest of my life.

Strop Talk

I know, I know--two posts in one day...What's the world coming to? But I got somethin' ta SAY!

I've only briefly mentioned my strop before...It's a Japanese made Kanayama Cordovan strop. There are several things that strike me as a wee bit peculiar about this strop..the first being that there is a company in Japan that makes handmade Cordovan leather razor strops...Seriously, most barbers don't use straights, so who are they for?

But it really is a quality piece...smooth and strong, with a well-sown handle. The leather is clearly high-quality, and the hanging tackle is no junk, either. The linen side is a very coarse, stiff material--stiffer than the leather, in fact. The whole thing says "quality". And the funny thing is, this is the bottom grade of strop they make--model # 1200. They make a full range--1200, 6300, 10000, 20000 and 30000...

They sell the 6300 on Rasorpur for 99 Euros, and that is just step above the one I have here....it's "for professional use", though. The thing that excites me, and the thing that inspired this post, is what is coming in the mail soon.

1 model number 30000 Kanayama Razor Strop will soon be hanging in the shave den. Top of the freaking line, baby...

Ooooohhhh...I can't wait!

Strange New Territory...

I ventured into a new realm of wetshaving last night...(Non)Electric Ladyland!



Risking, perhaps, the land of TMI, my wife and I are in the Japanese habit of bathing together (and it is certainly common enough--people bathe with coworkers here! It's nothing kinky at all, just custom...) and so I have witnessed, with growing horror, the abominable leg shaving which comes as a result of using ridiculously complicated, over-engineered cartridge shavers. Madness. So finally last night I convinced her to let me whip up a proper lather and give her a good old fashioned wetshave.

I loaded my heirloom Tech with a Lord DE that I had lying around, got out the Kim Son Silvertip brush (thinking it might be a bit gentler than boar--she is a LADY, after all) and some of The Real Shaving Company's Sensitive cream. The cream lathered up well; it was my first use, I tried it because I thought the scent would please her--it did--and it was sensitive formula, so maybe kind of moisturizing...and I wanted to experiment with it. She quite liked the lathering--she kept saying it felt like a salon.

The shave went well; I was nervous as heck, but there were no nicks and no razorburn, and of course it was smoother and nicer than any multiblade gadget. She was so pleased, in fact, that she asked me to shave her face!

Now, here's the part where people might start to get a little wierded out. Japanese women shave their faces. It is not that they are particularly hairy, as women go, but that the hair on their faces is quite dark and kind of coarse, so it is highly visible against the paleness that most women here try to cultivate (it also grows in unusual places...like eyelids!). So, rather than constantly plucking and bleaching, they shave. It was new to me, too, but understandable once you think about it.

So, anyway, after the leg shave my wife asked me to take care of her face--and, because I love her and she tolerates WAY more than she should from me, I indulged her. Let me tell you, it was terrifying. DEs are safety razors, but they can still cut--and shaving someone else is entirely different from shaving yourself. On your own face, you can get all kinds of feedback that you don't with another's face (of course). Also, the hair was so fine I couldn't even hear it--a big source help when shaving yourself. And, of course, I was shaving thing's I'd never shaved before, like foreheads and eyelids.

But I did it, with no nicks and no irritation, and my wife was extremely pleased. So, of course, was I.

After the shave, I liberally applied some Nivea Extra Soothing AS Balm to her legs, and she used her typically moisturizers/creams/alchemical potions on her face, and everything was peachy keen.

New things, people, that's what it's all about.

SCHICK INTERVIEW: Taking Questions.

Hello guys. Some of you might have noticed a brief communication from Ken Hill at Schick Japan on one of my comment threads. I removed the comment for privacy reasons, but we've been in contact a bit and he's very kindly agreed to answer some questions.


Ken Hill is the an executive with the Asian arm of the Energizer/Schick empire, and he seems to have taken an interest in me ol' blog here. So, in my presumption, I asked if it would be ok if I (we) interviewd him a bit. He said OK, rather nicely, but of course he'd have to use some discretion on some topics.

So, if there's anything you'd like to ask a big mucky-muck form one of the big Shaving companies, now's the time! I would ask, PLEASE keep it respectful (of course!) and no anti-goo in a can rants (as right as they might be :) ).

Please post questions or comments for Ken in the comment section!

Thanks,
Jim

IT's GO TIME (Warning: Some Rough Language)

OK kids, there here's my blog, and I got me a good old fashioned BONE TO PICK. So I'm going to pick it. Feel free to Ignore me, but follow this advice: Don't EVER buy from John Crowley, owner of an online shave shop that I won't name...no need to advertise. He's a liar and he's verbally abusive to his customers.

I have been looking at buying a BIG razor for a while, and some 8/8 Henckels Friodur Inox blades have been turning up on SRP; I liked the look of them. Then, just as I was about to grit my teeth and buy one from eBay, member John Crowley posted that he was having a sale on them--Huzzah! $139 plus the mandatory $12.95 International Flat Rate Shipping option--total of about $152

I bought one.

I should have done MORE RESEARCH. Both on the razor, AND the seller.

First problem: ten days after I ordered the razor, I received no delivery confirmation--this is odd, as in all other online vendor shopping, I have received a shipping receipt in a day or two. I emailed John to see what the problem was, and he said that he had had some problems and it had taken him a while to ship--but that the razor had shipped a couple of days before. So, a week late or so...but it was shipped. I still hadn't received a shipping receipt, but I know shit happens.

I got the razor a little over a week later.

Surprise #1--it had been shipped First Class postage. At a cost of $4.80.


So, about $8 difference, paying for a promised service that was not provided. So...he lied. Fraud, I think they call it, when a seller takes money for a service they don't provide...

Surprise #2: The blade was defective.

There was a discolored grind mark on the face of the blade. Now, since getting the razor I did more research and found that some people on SRP had mentioned that there were "odd" grind marks--but that this was ok with them. For $150, I don't think it is...but maybe that's just me.

Now, the scales are crap, and everyone knows that , so I didn't complain. I should have, but I didn't. I emailed John (and I'll admit that I was a bit angry...especially about the postage...I don't like liars) and said that I was a bit upset, and I would like 1. an explanation of the postage and 2. some kind of satisfaction on the blade.
**EDIT**

In the interest of fairness, here is my email:

"Dear Mr. Crowley,

I wanted to let you know the razor arrived. It took a while, and now that it's here I'm sorry to say that there seems to be a couple of problems.

First, on your website you charge $12.95 for the international flat rate--which is a fine option, and I have no trouble paying for the service. You can print out a mailing label and customs form automatically, and have the mail picked up; it's convenient and smart. However, when I got the box it was very clearly NOT shipped flat rate. In fact, it was clearly marked US First Class Postage $4.80. That's a little over $8 price difference...Can you please explain this?

The second problem is the blade itself. There is a clearly visible discolored spot on the blade that can be felt with the finger--perhaps a irregularly ground spot? Whatever the case, the fact that I paid $139 ($152 with shipping...) for this razor and it is clearly defective bothers me a lot. I understand the poor scale quality, and I'm not complaining about that, but the blade should be pretty close to perfect for that kind of money.

I guess it is possible that you didn't see the mark--even though you honed the razor--butI would like to know if you can offer any kind of solution to this?

I appreciate your prompt attention to this matter.

Best Regards,
Jim Rion"
John emailed me a one line response, and I quote:
"Hello Jim,

Please send it back to me and I will refund your money when I receive it.

John"

That's it. A few minutes later, by my google mail clock, he emailed me again and explained that if he actually used the service that he charged people for, he would lose money and he would have to "fill out a real pain-in-the-ass long customs form". But he would still refund my money when I sent the razor back to him.

Now, here's where my problem began. I was (FINALLY) doing research on this guy, and on SRP I found this thread, where he verbally abused other people who had had complaints, and I was now officially worried. Frankly, I figured if I returned the razor to him he'd find some BS excuse to not refund me the full amount. I replied, honestly, that I had not paid $150 for a razor I did not want, and if he wasn't going to offer me an exchange then forget about it. I also advised him that he should change the description of his item on his site, as it could very easily lead to some serious paypal claims against him.

**EDIT** Again, my email:

"John,

Thank you for your prompt reply.

I think you misunderstand. I don't pay $150 for things I don't want. If you can't offer an exchange, then I will keep this blade and call it a lesson learned.

I would advise you to think about changing the description of the razors on your website to include the possible defects in them. Someone could very easily start a claims process with PayPal over issues like this, especially if they aren't members of SRP and don't already know about the poor quality of the handles--the scratches and apparent rescaling marks make them look used.

Best Regards,
Jim Rion"

He responded, again with one line:

"Jim,

Then send it back to me and when I receive it I will send you a different one.

John"

He did, in fact, offer the option I had mentioned. But only after I had told him what he should do...and he never, not once, claimed any culpability for his actions. Here's actually where I got pissed off. Really. I don't handle piss poor customer service well, especially AFTER I buy something. You take my money, I'm your boss.

Now, in the interim, I had talked to my wife about the situation, and she recommended I keep the razor as it would just keep going around in circles if I didn't, and there was no way he would send me a better razor in return. I figured this was spot on, and I was already tired of the crap, so I fixed the scale problems (took about 5 seconds--Mr. Crowley must REALLY not care about his customers if he doesn't take the time to see that their orders are usable...) and let him know that, as a customer, I should not be forced to tell him how to handle complaints, and that I was tired of dealing with him, and that I had found his previous remarks on SRP (I included a link to jog his memory) and that I, myself, was no chump.

**My email**

"John,

I appreciate very much that you made the offer.

I feel very strongly that I should not have had to tell you to do so.

I imagine that you get a lot of complaints about these razors, and that you're probably tired of them. I imagine that you've had to replace a few, and that the one I got has probably been sent to others before. I also know that if I sent this razor back to you, it would just go on to someone else. I'm not comfortable with that.

After I emailed you last I decided that I was done with the entire situation and went ahead and filed out the spacer so that the tip no longer hit it on closing (funny, it only took about 5 seconds...), polished the scratches out of the scales, and did a test shave.

I appreciate that you put a decent edge on the razor, I've read that it's not easy to do with these Friodur's. Thanks for that.

I'll be keeping the razor, and in the future I will remember how this went.

My name is Jim Rion, you know my address, and I'm not a chump, either. (this is a direct reference to Mr. Crowley's remarks in the thread on SRP. ed.)


Jim Rion"


Here's where it gets FUN!!!

Mr. Crowley's response #1:

"Hello Jim,

While you are remembering all of that remember this:
1. I offered you a full refund and you refused.
2: I offered you a new razor in exchange and you refused.
So, short of just giving it to you there isn't another thing I can do to make you happy! You are apparently just one of those people who come along once in a while that can't BE pleased. I have had a few complaints - legitimate complaints where I was given the opportunity to make the customer happy and ultimately they were. If you had wanted custom scales and a polished razor I sell them too. Your comment about filing down the plastic end spacer and how it only took five minutes - are you by any chance related to that asshole from Belfast?

John"

It was all ok, really, except for the "asshole from Belfast" remark. That was offsides, really...And..He ALSO sells "polished" razors? $139 (on sale from $169!!!) DOESN'T buy a polished razor?!!?

But his second response?

"The more I read this the more I understand you have a serious mental problem. That explains a lot! Please go get some help.

John"

Oh yes...verbal abuse. I was going to let it go. I was going to not mention a damned word. But...Nope. He had to do it. He had to attack me.

So there it is. John Crowley is a liar and an abuse-monger, and he has no respect for anyone--even the people who pay his freaking bills. Don't buy a damned thing from him.
End of tirade.

A little more history...

So, things just keep catching my attention and I keep digging deeper into this Japanese shaving thing.

I've posted before about the history of the Feather safety razor company--they've got a long one--and I just found another interesting page.

Take a look at the Feather Single:


Look familiar? Look, perhaps, something like this:


Yep, it appears to be a Feather copy of a Schick Injector razor...maybe the L1 model? Although this one looks very similar to the N1, as well.



According to a Japanese shaving website, the Feather single was apparently introduced in 1970, and was sold until 1996. Schick kept the Injector on the market in Japan until 2000 (Japan was the last market to have Injectors on the shelves...I wish I could get my hands on one of those babies...talk about collector's items!) and the Schick blades are STILL available everywhere. Evidently, this style of razor was very popular in Japan...and understandably so.

The Schick injector is widely regarded as one of the best designed and best shaving safety razors ever. The blade loading system was super safe, and the quality of the construction is remarkable even today--the booming market in holders (helped, of course, by Corey and his Shaveblog) shows that these shavers are still worth tracking down. I myself tried one, and though I found that I preferred a Futur, I could recognize the ease of use and the relative quality of the shave.

I've always wondered if I just had the wrong Injector...

But anyway, I thought it highly intresting that Feather not only made Autostrop clones, and Tech Clones, but also Injector clones...and I bet they were pretty good.

The Honing Diaries, Part 2.

Ok, we're back to the stones. Non-straight heads, you might want to avert your eyes...


I've been working on some restorations, and with the blades all nice and pretty and back in their scales, I thought it'd be good to try out my hone skills. I've been keeping a honing diary on paper, and no here we have the digital version. How web 3.0!

So let's start with a shoulderless Torrey "Our 136".

It started out looking like this:


and after a little elbow grease ended up like this:

Not bad, if I do say so myself. But of course, it needs shaving to see if it was worth it.

I took it to a 1K diamond plate to set the bevel, and when it was shaving arm hairs I moved up to an aggressive pyramid, using a King 4K stone and a Belgian coticule instead of the 8K. After the pyramid, it was super sticky on the TPT and was popping hairs above my arm, so I polished it with 10 laps on the Shapton Pro 12K, 15 on my Nakayama with slurry and then Stropped and shaved.

The results? OK. Not great. The razor pulled a little, and did not give the smoothest shave. So we need to rework this one.

Next up was this unknown Japanese folder:

I got it cleaned up and rescaled, and now it looks ok. It's not going to win any beauty pageants, but it'll do...

This one I have honed up before but it needed a bit more work, much like the above torrey. To took it back to the bottom--reset the bevel, being SUPER careful to make sure that it shaved hairs smoothly off my arm. Then, I bumped the bevel up a notch with my newly acquired 2K Naniwa Super Stone. After that, I again tried the aggressive pyramid substituting an 8K super stone for the Coti. Polishing and finishing on 12K Shapton, Nakayama and Chromium Oxide pasted strop, stropped and shaved.

Results? A GREAT edge...really smooth, and quite sharp. Not quite first rate, but good enough for me. Satisfying as hell, it was!

And then, we have this Towa wedge from the Kawaguchi collection:



It was shaveable when I got it, but it pulled a bit--it had an edge that I think had been maintained, but not really honed, for a very long time. It pulled a bit, but cut well.

On this one, I went to the conservative pyramid, using the King 4k and Naniwa 8K, then the usual finish.

Results? Exquisite. Superb. Freaking DREAMY. As smooth and sharp an edge as you could ask for, and a damn fine morning for me.

Dance of joy time!