Sunday, August 30, 2009

A Trip to the Barber

I went to visit Kawaguchi-sensei today (he really does deserve the title now...)

The other day I ran into my barber and his family out shopping, and asked him if he wouldn't mind giving me a honing lesson. He gladly agreed, so today I packed up my razors (I KNEW it would come in handy!!!) and my Japanese Natural stone and headed off for a haircut.

Luckily he wasn't busy (he rarely is...which is ok, barbering is more of a hobby for him, he actually runs a large rehabilitation center in Hiroshima...no joke!) and dived right into the razors. He examined my previous honing critically, tut tutting and muttering "Not quite..." under his breath. He wasn't impressed with the ugly Torrey I have, but he really seemed to like the Revisor. Good taste!

Then we start with honing. He gave me some pointers on straight razors, showed me the right way to use the nagura--PUSH when you raise a slurry, really get it nice and thick--and the best strokes to use. He uses a kind of circular X stroke, ending with just the tip of the razor on the hone. I practiced a bit with his guidance, and I do think it helped a lot.

Then we started on Japanese kamisori. He brought out a huge Maruka Kiita stone--it had to weight 5 pounds, and talked about how rare they were these days, and how this one had cost an arm and a leg. Apparently the stone I have isn't ideal for kamisori, because they need a longer stroke and pressure--a bigger stone is better suited, according to my barber.

He gave me guidance starting with body position. First off, he said you start with the right posture, with the hone on a table at about waist height or a little lower, your body centered above it with your eyes aligned with the center of the hone. This position helps regulate the length and proportion of your strokes.

He put the razor on the hone at about at 30 degree angle handle leading, Omote ("flat" side, NO kanji side, etc) down. He told me to place the first two fingers of the left hand in the hollow of the blade ("ura" or Kanji side up) and put pressure on the blade--not a lot, but some. The right hand on the handle is only for balance--no pressure at all from the right hand. In that position, do about TEN back and forth strokes--Up and down, edge then spine leading. Then, flip the razor (Kanji side DOWN now) and do ONE spine leading stroke.

If the razor needs more sharpening, continue that pattern until it's done.

It's not exactly what I've learned before, but I've experienced the results and they are really, really good.

So I practiced that, as well.

Then, we talked a little about razors and shaving--and he was explicit: when you use a Japanese kamisori, the "Omote" is against the face. The honing makes an assymetrical bevel that cuts best when used a that way. When you use it the other way, your angle has to change a LOT or you raise the risk of cuts. He siad it like it was obvious, which it kind of is...but I had to ask.

I asked him a little about the razors he gave me before, when he bought them and who had made them, and he had no idea. "40 years ago? 50? " he wondered, then went rummaging through the drawer that had produced the razors in the first place. This time, he brought out some razor boxes--including one stamped by Iwasaki-san himself!!! It's almost like having a signature! The boxes gave no clues to when they were made, but he gave them to me anyway...and they are awesome!




(Iwasaki's stamp is the red circular thing at the bottom right.)

And, of course, when he opened one of the boxes, out slipped an Iwasaki kamisori he had forgotten he had...he looked at it, then held it out. "Take this one too!". Of course I accepted...I wonder how many decades it sat in that drawer? Amazing...ANOTHER gift from this amazing man.



After my stumbling thanks, and after we had chatted a while, I decided I should actually get a haircut so I sat in the chair and we talked some more while he trimmed me up. We talked about this and that, the way barbers do, then he mentioned that I should keep practicing honing, and if I ever wanted more help or just to talk, I should come by any time--I think he really likes that I'm interested. Then, the real kicker: he gave me a challenge. If (when!!!) I hone three razors to his satisfaction, he said he'd give me that enormous kiita he used to hone the Kamisori... It was pretty cool. He said, "You like this stuff, and you'd actually use it, so I'd like for you to have it. Hurry up and take it from me!"

I'll do my best, Kawaguchi-sensei!

7 comments:

Aleks said...

WOW !!! you're the " Kamisori Kid "

JimR said...

Wow indeed! It's almost becoming embarrassing...

I updated with pics, so you can see the boxes. I like how the Tōwa box says it's a "Full Hollow Ground", as does the razor, but it is the wedgiest razor I have. Somebody was copying!

tokeiten said...

Wow, very nice story and very nice razors /kamisori, lets see your progress.

By the way, what is the handle of the kamisori made off ?, it looks like some kind of leather.

Luxlover said...

Again. an awsome story. You seem to have stepped in it my friend.
Now, go and hone three to his satisfaction. I think you will make him proud.

Steve from NJ

JimR said...

isshou, Steve, thanks for the kind comments. I'll keep you guys updated with my progress, and I'm probably going to be on a honing kick for a while.

isshou, the handle is very old and cracked rubber, like on the Tosuke razors, but perhaps a little classier. It's aged poorly, which somehow adds to its attraction.

Batmang said...

It must be a wonderful experience to learn at the feet of a master. It sounds like the technique for honing a Japanese razor is different than the typical folding razor that we are usually used to.

Best of luck with the master's challenge, grasshopper.

JimR said...

Yeah Nate, it is different. But I am enjoying the learning a lot! I hope it goes well.

Thanks, as always, for reading!