Friday, October 30, 2009

At The Barbershop

Kawaguchi-sensei is fast becoming a part of my life...

I went in for a hair cut last weekend, early on Saturday. I took two razors for his examination--one that I was confident in, one that I was sure he would fail.

When I got the shop, he didn't say anything, just waved me in and pointed at the counter. "Show me!" he said, when I set my dopp down.

I opened up and pulled out the Genco (confident) and Torrey (not quite there yet) that I had been honing for the past few days with nothing but heavy slurry on the Nakayamas. I would hone until the slurry broke down into a thick, black paste. The Genco did not need as much as the Torrey--after two rounds (about 20 minutes each) the Genco had a nice, even haze along the entire cutting length of the razor.

The Torrey had needed much more--it was not only an uneven, crooked bevel, but it had a nice big chip in it; at least 1mm deep, and 3mm long. I have no idea how it happened, but it did. And I honed it out on the Nakayama with slurry. Nothing else. Just slurry, and lots and lots of time.

I gave it. The chip disappeared. The bevel evened out, bit by bit...but not enough, and I knew that.

But I took them to Kawaguchi-sensei, and he told me what I thought I had figured out. The Genco was good, the Torrey was not (that brings my total of approved razors up to 2. The Torrey got a .7...so 2.7, apparently.) . I was happy--I know what he's looking for, I'm developing an eye for it. And of course the shaves told...the Genco has an exceptional edge, smooth and keen, while the Torrey is just not there yet. There is an unfinished quality. I need to make sure that the entire edge is even and knows the hone.

And, in the words of Kawaguchi-sensei, I have to hone happy. "Hone happy, and the edge will cut happy."

He really is right, too. I've been honing happy, and it shows...

I wish I could go to the barber every day.

Monday, October 26, 2009

Reviews you can USe: Kanebo "Valcan" Skin Milk

I love this stuff.


Perhaps I shouldn't have given away the ending like that, but seriously. It's fantastic.

I was in the drugstore with Ms. Moneybags and she said, "Why don't you get something?" An excellent question, I thought, so I opened this one up, took a whiff, and fell in love. My wife did, too.

This is, like the other Japanese aftershaves I've reviewed, pure classic. It REEKS of dignified men in fine, but perhaps a bit out of fashion, suits...men who wear hats, and judge a man's character by his handshake.

Kanebo says this scent is a "spicy fougere", and the fine fellows at Basenotes say:

  • Top Notes
  • * Green Notes, Lemon, Lime, Bergamot, Aldehyde .
  • Middle Notes
  • * Jasmin, Cedarwood, Sandal, Carnation, Rose, Basil .
  • Base Notes
  • * Musk, Moss, Tonka, Amber.
What I say is, it's fantastic. It's a warm, dark scent, slightly sweet, and the Amber and Tonka (vanilla-like notes) really come through. Very understated, very masculine. Perfect for Autumn or winter.

Now, as for how it feels, well, this is another one of those "milks" that is much more of a "cream". It's thick, a wee bit on the heavy side for me, but on the good side that means a little goes a long way. I find it incredibly soothing and smoothing after a shave, and the moisturizing is top notch...again, perfect for the drier, colder months.

On application, it CAN be a bit tacky for a good 30 seconds, but it fades quickly into a nice, gentle soothing feeling. And that warm scent fills your head with comfort...This is, in fact, a scent I am definitely going to buy in the EdT.

The ingredients are pretty straightforward:
Water, stearic acid, Mineral Oil, Miristic acid octyldodecil, Cetanol, Polysorbate 60, lauric acid sorbitane, Alantoin, triethanolamine,Isopropyl methylphenol, Paraben, Parfum, yellow #5, yellow #203, blue #1.

Whatever that means.

I'm keeping it.

Friday, October 23, 2009

You Can't Unsee It!

And here you go...my ugly mug for all to see.

So I finally caved to my millions of rabid fans, begging for a glimpse of my chiseled features (can you chisel marshmallows?), and here it is: my first shave video.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bBDRP6tSOWo


That's me shaving with a Japanese razor, or kamisori. I'm not sure who the maker is, it is one of those I got from my barber a while back. It was made in 1968 (says so right on it!) and was a size two--but years of use have worn it down a bit.

I do try to keep the flat side, the omote, against my face as I was taught to do my my barber. This leads to some unusual grips and angles, but it works, and like I said: it's about discipline. You know, people tell me that it's entirely possible to shave with both sides, and it's not that I don't believe them, I just have to ask...Why? Why would you bother to pay all that money, and get this razor with centuries of tradition, and then totally ignore that tradition? What's the point? I guess I just don't get it...

Well, anyway, it's your face and your razor...do what works for you!

The lather is Penhaligon's English Fern, worked up with a Semogue 1305 boar brush (thanks Bruno!).

The shave went well, it was BBS and comfortable...there has been some question of my stroke--that little, fast stroke. I'm not exactly sure why I do it, but it somehow feels more controlled, more precise. It works for me...

Well, I hope you recover from the shock soon...

Saturday, October 17, 2009

Handle Wrapping...

I'm wrapping a Japanese straight razor.


OK, here's the story. This is an Iwasaki, one that I've sold to a customer. He requested that I get the handle wrapped in rattan, and rather than depend on sending them of to get it done, I decided to do it myself.

However, having no idea how to go about such a thing, I asked a couple of people, and one of them, a knife-shop owner and kamisori user, recommended that I not use rattan--it absorbs water and dries slowly, so it leads to rust problems on the handle. He said that some kind of fabric is preferable. I found this waxed cotton line at a craft store, and thought I'd give it a try.

This is my first try, but I like it. The pattern is simple, but pleasing, and adds a nice texture to the grip I think. I'll work on making it more symmetrical and even, but I think this is a keeper.

What do you think? Any suggestions?

Here are pictures.







When I get a bit more adept at it, I'll post pics of the whole process...It's simple, but long.

And the finished product!










Friday, October 16, 2009

Duende!

So my shaves have taken a decidedly Latin turn with a lovely little package from Portugal...

I did some wheeling and dealing with some fine gentlemen of the Iberian Peninsula, and ended up with some totally sweet swag...An NOS Filarmonica Para Barbas Duras, a Semogue 1305 Boar Brush, some 444 aftershave and an alum block, and even some real Portuguese wine!!!


The razor had never been opened--it was still sealed in a plastic bag inside its lovely gold box--for decades! Of course, I got it to use, so open it up I did...


The scales are "just" plastic, but the black is stylish, and the blade is just beautiful...etched back and that sweet black rubber grip...and sooooo big.

The cool thing is, even after so many years of sitting in a box in some guy's basement or something, the edge was still shave ready! I stropped it up and shaved last night, no hones needed...and the shave!!!








I took the Fillie for a tryout with a whole range of Portuguese/Spanish products...La Toja cream, Semogue Brush, 444 aftershave...

And how did it go? Freaking awesome.

The blade is a killer. One shave down, and it's already my favorite razor. Big, beefy, sharp and smooth...and the style is pure class. This one is mine for good...

The brush was darned good, too. For the first use, it was extremely effective--the first lather from my Omegas was not nearly as good. And somehow, the bristles on the Semogue seem smoother for a first try. It was a really nice brush, and the handle shape is excellent. We might have a new contender for best boar brush...Sorry, Betty!

The La Toja (sensitive version) was perfect, as usual. I really love this cream...just great performance, lovely scent and a great after-shaving feeling.

The 444 aftershave gel..well, unfortunately, it's a bit too heavily mentholated. I tried a test run at the back of my jaw, and it started burning almost immediately...I had to wash it right off. It's a damned shame, but oh well...C'est la Vie!

I had a great shave, though, thanks to some awesome products from the land of bull fights and Flamenco...Gracias! Obrigado! And Arigatou!

Sunday, October 11, 2009

I Should Have Got Flowers!!!

Holy crap, I missed our 1st anniversary!


I can't believe it...my first year as a wetshaver is behind me. It's been a weird road--I've gone through a lot of products, and a lot of ups and downs, and the tone of this whole blog has changed a lot in just a year...but I'm still at it! Which is odd for me, as I usually let things go pretty quickly.

I still have reviews I want to write, and I still have lots to learn about honing, and razors and history (and pretty much everything under the sun) and I plan to share that with you. So the blog won't be dying, and I hope it won't be boring.

But right now, I suppose it's time to get a little reflective...think about what I'm doing, and what I've done, and why...

When I first started this whole thing, this is what I said:

We don't have many coming-of-age rituals anymore. There's nothing that really happens and lets people know "You are an adult" now. And I feel I missed out on something. My dad never taught me to shave (my dad never really taught me shit) and looking at what shaving really is, I feel I missed out. I always treated it as a "get it done and try not to hurt yourself too much" kind of thing, which is why I had a beard for nearly ten years. Now I know, with some practice and the right tutelage, shaving can actually be GOOD for you.

It's not just the fact that traditional creams and shaving soaps are easier on your skin, better smelling, and much more economical than all the plastic, science lab stuff that people use to shave these days. It's the fact that, with a little skill and patience, the heretofore lamentable task of daily shaving can become an enjoyable ritual, a time to relax and forget your cares, and take some time for yourself. I look forward to the time when shaving becomes something I actually anticipate with pleasure, instead of dread. And someday, if I have a son, I look forward to the day when I can hand him a razor and say, "Ok boy, this is how you do it."


And you know what? I was right. I do look forward to shaving, almost always...I've had my bad days, of course. And it is a truly enjoyable ritual, and it has done me good. It's good for the world (less waste) it's good for your pocketbook (if you're not a crazy collector like me) and it's good for your soul...you look yourself in the face and focus on exactly what you are doing--if you don't, you will get hurt. The long and the short of it is, I made a damned good decision when I picked up that brush and that first awful, awful cream.

So a year later, and there's no sign of me getting tired of the daily shave...in fact, there's every sign of me getting even MORE involved--I'm signing up for more forums, and starting Shaving goods shops, and learning more and more about what I'm doing.

Let's hope it continues to go well!

So...how was your year?

Thursday, October 8, 2009

I Got My Head Checked....

Last week got me really down. Bad honing, bad shaves, and bad feelings all around. But a little perspective, and things are back on track...

I don't know about you, but wetshaving, and especially for me straight shaving, is something I picked up for the, what...the ritual? The connection to past and present, and the centering of it? The time, the focus on simple action, is what makes it important for me--being in the moment. The honing is the same--on the rocks with my razors, with the head where it's supposed to be.

But last week...it wasn't there. I wasn't in the place I was supposed to be. I was failing and getting frustrated, and my frustration led to more failure.I turned to Straight Razor Place to ask about it, and I got hugely varying advice, and more and more frustration. I very nearly gave up entirely.

But I didn't. I went to visit Kawaguchi-sensei, and got a solid grounding. Just hone. Just hone, and don't get irritated, or worry, or let yourself be tired, because it'll come out of you and into the edge, and the edge won't be any good. And he was right, that was exactly what was happening. My edges and my shaves were failing miserably, my face was hurting, my heart was low, and the snake was eating its tail.

But that visit to Kawaguchi, and some generous help from Sham on SRP, straightened my head out. Honing and shaving isn't about what other people are doing, right or wrong. It's about being, now.

So this week, with my head right and my heart high, shaving has been good again, and honing as well. I'm enjoying myself, which is what is supposed to be.

Honing is, and shaving is. Just that.

Monday, October 5, 2009

What a week...

Man. This has been a tough one on the shave front. I've been trying some serious hone stuff, and it's been failing miserably, which means BAD SHAVES!!!! GRRRR....

My trials and tribulations trying to get used to the hone my barber gave me a couple months back are well known to many readers of Straight Razor PLace, and I'm not going to review them here because, honestly, I'd rather just forget it. Not a pretty incident. Lots of ugly feelings, and some stark realizations...*sigh* Drama.

However, on Sunday I went back to visit Kawaguchi-sensei, and it was refreshing in oh so many ways. We talked razors, he helped me with some technique, honed a razor (and I got a video...awesome, eh?) and he gave me another hone!

I truly love that man.
Watch the video, I bet you will too.


Here's a VERY rough translation:
Around the 00:20-00:55 mark
K: About this much.
Me:Ok, ok...
K: Do about this much, and it'll be really different.
{pause}
K: The hone is Best? (Even my wife doesn't understand this one...). The hone is really flat/smooth, that's why it's stuck. (He picks up the hone using the stuck nagura).

(Then he talks to the guy watching, who says "Unbelievable...")

1:02
(He starts honing the razor...)
K: Like this, yeah? Slow is fine. When you do it, about three times is good. (I think he means circles...that ISN'T the stroke he showed me before...)
J: Three times...
K: Then change sides.
{pause}
K: About like this...
{pause}
1:25ish
K: To know if you7re doing it righ, look at the color (points to slurry). (At this point, I have no idea what his WORDS are, but I get the feeling he's saying that the color of the slurry is the best indicator of your honing--the faster it changes, the better you're doing. Maybe...)

1:40
K: When the color starts to change you're honing right.
Me: The amount of steel is increasing...

{He goes over to the window to check the edge by it's color}

2:35
K: The part of the edge that I honed is right here, you see? Up to here, it honed well. This part here, that I honed, is straight. This part (points to tip) is rounded. This part, you raised the tip when you were honing. Anyway, there's no color. This is the part I honed (points to straight edge of blade). The end...
ME: The end is rounded (meaning there bevel extends up onto the toe a bit from a previous smile...)
{back to the counter...}

3:01
K: If you really pushed it, you could hone the tip like this (exaggerates a tip-down position) but if you do that the edge won't be any good. To hone this out (looks carefully at the blade) it'll take about an hour. (Meaning to hone out the smiling tip on this hone...).
ME: Really?
K: If you honed it...
Me: Sooo...This part, the one you just honed...Will it shave well?
K: Not quite yet...
ME* How do you tell? Just by looking? (long pause while I search for words)Feeling with your fingers?
K: no no, no need. Just by looking, I can see in the color...a little more. But...This will cut, I think. (Tests on his arm) It'll cut.

3:54
ME: Ok, well, (Here I WANTED to ask about overhoning, but failed miserably) Can you hone too much? You said to go for an hour...
K: OK, here...One time, ten minutes. Ten minutes, ten minutes, ten minutes...to one hour. Don't just hone for one hour.
ME: Don't...
K: Even just five minutes...ten minutes. Try it.

ME: And always use this nagura? For example, at the end, hone with just water...
K: Don't.
ME: Don't.
K: Don't. It'll be rough. This (indicates slurry) will get finer over time. Just with this (stone), the color won't change (rinses stone).
{starts honing with water only}
5:05
K: (Totally don't understand...something "don't use..."
5:45
K: This color...there's no light (???) Just look at the light.
ME: (not seeing what he wants me to see) Sooo...it's not there? The color?
K: Yeah.

{back to the counter. at this point, I forgot about the camera...sorry}
6:04
K: (???)
ME: This Nagura, it's the same stone as this stone?
K: This is a good stone (???)

Here it breaks up. Sorry.

And he gave me this massive rock:



It's huge, and it's pretty, and I bet I won't be able to use it right for years. Oh well, I'll hang in there. I would love to do it justice--it's a good 50 year old hone, nice yellow with spots of nashiji...and it's so freaking big. Like, 8 inches by 3 inches by 2 inches. Weighs a good 4 pounds. A brick.

Lots of Japan in that rock...I'd like to get some of it out and into my razors!